A headland path above the sea at Cape Sounion under a grey March sky

Greece in eight days: what a coverage trip actually costs

We went to Greece in March 2018 with a simple plan: see as much of it as we could. Eight days, five ancient sites, a rental car and four hotels. We did it. We covered nearly everything we set out to cover.

That was eight years ago now, and the country has changed less than the paperwork has. But the thing we would tell you hasn’t changed at all — and it isn’t that the plan was wrong. The plan worked. It’s that the plan had a cost nobody mentioned beforehand, because the cost doesn’t appear anywhere on an itinerary.

It appears in the car.

A coverage trip is a driving trip


Photographed in southern Santorini, 16 March 2018. From our own March 2018 trip.

Greece is sold as ruins and islands. On the mainland it is neither. It is a road.

The Acropolis at nine, then ninety minutes down the coast to Sounion. Delphi the next day, three hours each way. Out of Athens at nine, the canal at half ten, a guide waiting at Epidaurus at noon, Nafplio by dark.

The itinerary was clear about the last morning: leave Nafplio early, ninety minutes at Mycenae, back on the road by mid-morning — so you won’t have to rush at the last minute.

We were still there when we should have been halfway to the airport. The site was better than the time we’d given it. Five sites in four days leaves no room for that.

It isn’t a mistake. It’s a choice, and we’d rather you made it knowing.

Rooftops in Nafplio at dawn

Rooftops in Nafplio at dawn, with the bay and the mountains behind

Nafplio at first light, the Peloponnese. From our own March 2018 trip.

Oia, Santorini

Whitewashed cave houses stepping down the Oia cliff edge above the caldera, with the sea and the far islands beyond

Photographed at Oia, Santorini. From our own March 2018 trip.

Lunch in Pyrgos, Santorini

A molten chocolate cake on a white plate on a wooden table

Photographed at Pyrgos, Santorini. From our own March 2018 trip.

What we’d tell you before you book


Count the drives, not the sites. Five sites sounds like five days. It is really four days of driving with five sites threaded through them. Look at any Greek itinerary you’re handed and add up the hours between the bold names — that number is your holiday.

March is shorter than you plan for. Our sunset was at 6:29 in the evening. In August you’d have had until nearly nine. That difference is not weather, it’s two and a half hours of usable day, every day, and it decides whether the afternoon site is a visit or a glance. Our own paperwork had the sunset time written into it — which tells you the people who arrange these trips already know.

Off-season is genuinely cheaper at the gate. Greek site admission ran on a reduced winter rate when we went, and it was written on every line of our itinerary. Don’t take our 2018 numbers as current — check them — but do know the two-tier season exists, because almost nobody mentions it.

The island at the end wasn’t a consolation. It was the plan, and it did what it was meant to do. Two nights, no guide, no schedule. If you build a coverage trip, build the soft landing into it deliberately. Ours was the only part of the eight days that wasn’t running to a clock.

Entry, as of July 2026. A US passport, no visa for stays under 90 days in any 180. The EU’s Entry/Exit System has been fully operational since 10 April 2026, so your entry and exit are recorded digitally rather than stamped. ETIAS — the €20 travel authorisation — is not yet required; it is expected in the last quarter of 2026, with the date announced well in advance. This changes; check it against the European Commission’s official ETIAS page before you book, and ignore any site that wants to charge you a markup to apply on your behalf.

The Corinth Canal. Thirty minutes, then back in the car.
The Corinth Canal. Thirty minutes, then back in the car.
Nafplio, mid-afternoon. The theatre took the middle of the day.
Nafplio, mid-afternoon. The theatre took the middle of the day.
Still Nafplio. The first hour nobody had planned.
Still Nafplio. The first hour nobody had planned.
The harbour. The day started in Athens.
The harbour. The day started in Athens.

Would we do it again


The Aegean from the cliffs at Cape Sounion, looking south
The Aegean from Cape Sounion, Attica — March 2018

Yes — and roughly the same way. We wanted the sites and we got the sites, and eight years on those are still the days we talk about. But we’d add a day. Not to see anything more; to stop being late for the things we’d already chosen.

That is the only piece of advice on this page that cost us anything to learn, and it is the reason Milli asks about pace before she asks about places.